By: Reza Chahkanouii
Translation: Massoud Mohsenin
From: Kouh Magazine - Spring & Summer 1996
Alborz Mountain range with more than 2000 Km. lenght lies from North-West to North-East of Iran.
This vast mountain range comprises main peaks of 4000m. height. The only peak higher than 5000m. is Damavand with 5671m. altitude at the farthest end of the central eastern part of Alborz. It's 70Km. on a straight line from Tehran.
Mount Damavand is the result of volcanic activities at the beginning of the quaternary geologic time (Pleistcence stage). The same accured for Arrarat in Turkey and Sahand, Sabalan and Alvand in Iran.
Damavand like many volcanic mountains bears a conic shape very similar to Fujiyama in Japan.
Damavand is actually a non-active volcano but wipes brim-stone. It means that it is going through the last stage before complete silence. However, its warm mineral springs, absence of extensive glaciers and frequent earthquakes at every few years intervals are the evidences of internal activities of this mountain. However, its isolation, high altitude and conic shape visible from far distances, have made it outstanding amongst other high mountains in the region.
Damavand region is one of the most beautiful natural surroundings with fields full of wild poppy and purple lily in spring and long grass plots in green summer. It is also a rainfull area having very hard winters, but moderate summers. The summit and slopes are always covered by snow.
In the history of Iran, Damavand has always been a symbol and its name is synonymous with Iran.
A good number of tales and epics have been written about it, reflecting the deep place it holds in the culture and beliefs of Iranian people.
The first successful recorded climb to this peak goes back to 1900. During that year, some Iranian geographer engineers, affiliated to Mozaffari Geographic Mission, succeeded to reach the top through a very difficult glacier course, called Yakhar Valley. From that time to 1936, there is no recorded climb. But in 1940s, the climbs were multiplied and new courses were opened.
Due to its conical shape, climbing is possible from all sides, but well-known paths are nine. The most frequented are North, North-East, South and West faces. The easiest trajectory is the southern path. On all faces, shelters are provided.
If the starting point is Tehran, you should count on an average of 3 days for the climb. From Tehran, you take Haraz Road. After 120 Km. via Polour village, you reach Reineh village. This is the nearest village to the southern path. There, you can find a well-equipped old shelter.
In the past, climbing started from this village, but nowadays, by taking a dirt road (often used by mine machinery) you can reach a spot called Goosfand- Sara with an altitude of 3200m. from sea level. At this point, you can follow a path with a moderate slope which gets gradually steeper. After 3 to 4 hours climbing, you reach the southern shelter at 4150m. altitude. This shelter with a capacity of 30 persons is a favorable place for a short night rest.
The beginning hours of the following day is the best time to start the final stage of the climb. The path starts from behind the shelter. the slope is relativelysteep and the high altitude and lack of Oxygen makes climbing rather difficult. At 5100m. at your right, you can see a huge suspending ice-piece called Abshar Yakhy (Icy Water Fall).
The most difficult part of the climb is about 300m. under the peak. This part is called Doud Kouh (Smoke Mountain) or Sulphuric Hill, steaming sulphuric gas out of the holes. Its bad smell makes breathing difficult. After passing this part, there is no more slope to climb, only a huge ditch waits ahead. This is the main Damavand volcanic mouth located on top of the summit.
If the weather is fine, you can see the green jungle of the north of Iran, the Caspian sea, the city of Tehran, the lake of Lar and at very far sight on the south the vast plain of Varamin from Damavand peak.
Climbing from shelter to the peak takes 8 to 9 hours and the return to the shelter about 3 to 4 hours.